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N&O
Published: Nov 04, 2005
Greg Cox, Correspondent
Chili cheese fries? Looks like ol' Greg has consumed one too many orders of foie gras and has finally gone over the edge.

That's the sort of reaction I imagine many of you are having as you read this week's pick, and I can't say I really blame you. As the restaurant critic for a newspaper serving an increasingly diverse and sophisticated market, I realize that I risk losing some serious gourmet cred with such a recommendation.

But look at it this way: If I'm willing to take such a risk, maybe there really is something special about the chili cheese fries at Players Retreat. Like scratch-made chili, for starters, a classic diner-style brew chockablock with ground beef and kidney beans in a tomato-based sauce jacked up with diced pickled jalapenos.

This chunky concoction is amply ladled over a massive logjam of crisp, skin-on fries. And it's generously topped with grated cheddar and mozzarella cheeses.

One caveat: Don't order this dish unless you have someone to help you eat it. It's big enough for four normal appetites, but it's so addictive that you'll probably polish it off even if you're dining alone. I say this from sad experience.

Granted, even chili cheese fries this good aren't what you'd call gourmet fare. But they deliver a simple, deeply satisfied feeling that gourmet fare rarely does. And I'd swear that the setting -- a college-town tavern that doesn't appear to have changed since it opened more than half a century ago -- makes the chili cheese fries at Players Retreat taste even better.

Nov. 22, 2005
News & Observer
By Dudley Price
© Copyright 2005

After keeping the beer flowing for 54 years, the Players Retreat, one of the city's oldest taverns, was on the verge of a final last call when an investment group bought a stake in the business last week.

With competition that has been siphoning customers and a coming rent increase, the bar was about to shut the taps for good this month, said Richard "Gus" Gusler, a lawyer who is heading the partnership.

"It was 10 days away from being gone forever," Gusler said of the bar at Oberlin Road and Hillsborough Street.

Pete Jarrell, who in 1994 bought the bar -- affectionately known as the "PR" by generations of customers -- is retaining partial ownership. Gusler is taking over day-to-day management. "It's going to be a challenge," Gusler said. "But I fully believe we can turn it around."

Gusler, who lives in neighboring Cameron Park, acknowledges that he'll have to work a delicate balancing act to maintain the PR's character while making enough changes to appeal to new customers.

"We're going to take the PR into the 21st century," he said.

In a city where nightlife tends to be centered in strip shopping centers or at trendy national chains, the Players Retreat stands out.

It's the antithesis of the high-energy lounges that dominate the nearby Glenwood South district. The decor is dark wood and vintage N.C. State University athletics. Rows of aquariums back a long oak bar. There are a few small televisions, but conversation, a pool table and a 500-can beer collection often are the entertainment.

From its founding by Bernie and Mickey Hanula during the Truman administration, the PR was a social center for West Raleigh residents, NCSU students, politicians and journalists, who crammed the place nightly.

Wedding receptions and baby showers were held at the PR, where the clientele regularly included Supreme Court justices and carpenters in adjoining seats.

click to enlarge
Review from www.GoodnightRaleigh.com  (John)
070208

Any time an organization or establishment uses the phrase “the oldest ___ in ___”, there is bound to be controversy. The title “Oldest bar in Raleigh” is no exception. Mitch claims as much for his bar, near the spot on the menu that also mentions the appearance in Bull Durham. While it may be the oldest bar that is still in the original structure, the Jolly Knave was sold to Mitch after the PR was established. Red’s, also owned by Mitch, has been closed for more than 30 years. Another local bar that claims the title is The Office Tavern. There seems to be dispute because they relocated from five points to the Johnson Street location long ago.
It seems as though any person that has lived in Raleigh for a significant amount of time knows the inside of Player’s Retreat. The web site states that it is "a Raleigh tradition since 1951".
While I haven’t lived in Raleigh very long, this place is special to me too. Once I had an instructor who moved class to this location to discuss topics over drinks–before noon! In addition to the history of the place, there is something special about the atmosphere too. Similar to Mitch’s, it is chock full of eye candy attached to the walls with phrases such as "Our waitresses go from zero to bitch in four seconds". It is quite large inside, especially given the location. It has a decently sized pool room, a separate dining room, outdoor seating, and a spacious bar.
One of the most interesting parts of the PR is the computer with free internet access and printer. The internet (Google in particular) has made us realize that any disagreement over a fact, figure, or history item can be settled in a matter of seconds with almost zero effort. Coffee/tea houses, restaurants, and bars in particular have always been filled with people having philosophical debates of every variety. This frequently leads to one person disagreeing with another person’s presentation of the facts of an event. By placing a computer with internet access and a printer for free public use, you are assured there will never be a conversation’s completion left hanging upon promises of future consultation with Google or Wikipedia. As far as I know, it is the only bar in the area with a free public computer.
Bert, one of the PR’s bartenders, was wearing a shirt that said "Beer - it’s not just for breakfast anymore". He’s been around for quite some time and has some unique information on the cultural history of Raleigh. He told me stories of a bar on Hillsborough Street with a swimming pool, the old headshop underneath of Daryl’s (now Red Hot & Blue), and some of the large name musical acts that came through Raleigh in the mid 70s to early 80s. When asked about Mitch’s claim about being the oldest bar in Raleigh, he stated that
"Mitch’s isn’t the oldest bar and he knows it. It’s been around for 30 years. There is some debate about The Office Tavern, but they moved across town."

With an established reputation for great food, vegetarian options, the largest selection of single malt scotches in North Carolina, fantastic drink specials, and a well designed web site–they have all of the ingredients for the best bar in Raleigh.